Best of New York

The Absolute Best Cacio e Pepe in New York

桑德罗(Sandro)的孟努(Menu Cacio e Pepe)。Photo: Melissa Hom

在这里,Cucina Povera Classic Pasta的最佳版本Cacio e Pepe, which may be more popular in New York these days than it is inRome.

The绝对Best

1.桑德罗的
306 E. 81st街。第二大道。212-288-7374

Cacio e pepe is just three ingredients: pasta, cheese, and pepper — four if you count the pasta cooking water, which you should since it’s the key to a smooth sauce. But there’s more to it than that. There’s the matter of getting hot pasta water and fatty cheese to play nice. There’s vigorous tossing and vigorous stirring. And there’s much precision shuffling of saute pans on and off the heat. In short, there is technique, the goal of which is a sharp and spicy emulsified sauce that clings to but doesn’t weigh down the pasta. All of this requires something like the quick thinking and lightning reflexes of anNBA控球后卫。这也许就是为什么罗马超越的厨师桑德罗·菲奥里特(Sandro Fioriti)将他的牛un菜卡西奥·佩佩(Menu Cacio e Pepe)委托给他的厨房,而是在他自己的厨房里。他的超传统版本(意大利面条,佩科里诺·罗曼诺(Pecorino Romano),粗磨碎的黑胡椒)在酱汁和意大利面之间达到了正确的平衡。酱汁不太松,不太粘。一堆意大利面条似乎都被浸入了Bon Bons浸入钢化罐中的方式中。不用说,意大利面条被煮熟,并加热了管道。If there’s a secret to his success, Fioriti isn’t spilling, but it must be practice and more practice — the 68-year-old chef has been making the dish almost his entire life, having gotten his start in the kitchens of Rome at the age of十。

2.
403 E. 12thSt.,第一大街。646-602-1300

Another off-the-menu sensation, Marco Canora’s cacio e pepe, made with spaghetti alla chitarra, is an out-and-out flavor bomb that gives the lie to the common refrain that pasta cacio e pepe is Italy’s baby-palate answer to mac and cheese. Canora uses olive oil (generally acceptable), finishes with butter (officially verboten, but used by more cooks than you’d think), and doesn’t skimp on the freshly ground black pepper. HisC.E.P.should come with anNC-17rating.

3.Maialino
2 Lexington Ave., nr. 21stSt.;212-777-2410

Nick Anderer’s cacio e pepe is distinguished by the kitchen’s springy housemade tonnarelli (which would be even better if it had just a little more bite) and an unbelievably creamy sauce made, of course, without cream. It’s so popular, they offer it practically ’round the clock — at lunch and dinner, between lunch and dinner, and on the late-night menu. If that’s not enough, come back for breakfast and try the softly scrambled cacio e pepe蛋。

4.我苏迪
105 Christopher St.,Nr。Bleecker St。;212-414-5774

丽塔·索迪(Rita Sodi)的质感质感的意大利面条cacio e pepe不太湿,不要太干,从不块状,而且味道很好。根据Sodi的说法,这是她最受欢迎的面食 - 考虑到她菜单上其他原始的选择有多好are.

5.卢帕
170 Thompson St.,Nr。休斯顿街;212-982-5089

马里奥·巴塔利(Mario Batali)和乔·巴斯蒂亚尼奇(Joe Bastianich)在1999年开放了卢帕(Lupa)时,将Bavette Cacio e Pepe放在菜单上。这可能就是为什么有些人需要更多的人认为他发明了这道菜的原因。它仍然像16年一样丰富而令人满意ago.

6.Momofuku Nishi
232 Eighth Ave., nr. 22ndSt.;646-518-1919

Italians have many pasta rules. One of them is no cream in the cacio e pepe. Ditto butter. So who knows what they would say about chickpea hozon, the cheesy, miso-like, fermented-chickpea paste that stands in for Pecorino Romano in Momofuku Nishi’s ceci e pepe? What we say: brilliant, innovative, and, yes, delicious. Respectful of tradition in its own way, too. And even if most Roman cacio e pepe scholars would not condone it, they could probably get behind chef Josh Pinsky’s springy housemadebucatini.

The Absolute Best Cacio e Pepe