Finding the best pasta when there’s so much of it everywhere isn’t easy. Our methodology: Borrow Mario Batali’s Babbo pasta-tasting-menu conceit and apply itDIY-style to a bunch of other restaurants’ menus, which led to ordering as many as eight pasta dishes at one sitting, and elicited funny looks from fellow diners that ranged from bewilderment to revulsion to order-envyregret.
The绝对Best
1.Marea’s Fusilli With Red-Wine-Braised Octopus and Bone Marrow
240 Central Park S.，Nr。百老汇；212-582-5100
是第一个塞进一碗Marea的Fusilli的人 - 就像乔纳森·斯威夫特（Jonathan Swift）的大胆的牡蛎泥浆一样，是一个坏蛋狂热者？我们认识的一些人害怕这道菜死亡。但是，当迈克尔·怀特（Michael White）决定用紫色的头足动物的触角和您在动物骨头的空心中发现的脂肪组织来振作他的ragù时，他创造了一个不太可能的人群。令人信服的是纹理的并置：手工滚动的fusilli的咀嚼形状的形状明显像小尖头，章鱼的略微挤压，骨髓的融化质量像胶状的面包片一样散落在周围。然后是番茄酱，用液体骨髓和品尝丰富，泥土和淡淡的味道乳化。某些意大利面形状在我们的脑海中永远与某些调味料联系在一起：扁面条与蛤lam，bucatini和amatriciana，orecchiette，带有香肠和西兰花拉比。直到马里亚（Marea）的红葡萄酒般的octopus and bon-marowragù来到along.
2.Del Posto’s Bauletti
85 Tenth Ave., nr. 16thSt.;212-497-8090
这样的意大利面列表的问题是，它将毫无意义，不完整，在疯狂的边界，没有Del Posto Pasta菜肴上，问题是不可能选择一个最好的Del Posto Pasta Dish。马克·拉德纳（Mark Ladner）的每个面食都非常出色。一群人没有一个傻瓜，笨拙的人或成绩不佳。而且，如果这是纽约绝对最佳意大利面菜单的排名，那么Del Posto将处于最高水平。但是，我们可以做的是选择当前的最爱，那就是Bauletti。Bauletti，例如Cappellacci，是意大利面ripiena或Pasta Pista。如果Cappellacci从字面上翻译为“破旧的旧帽子”，马克·拉德纳（Mark Ladner）的鲍莱蒂（Bauletti）更像是Jaunty Pharrell Williams Chapeaux - 高，薄的，薄而柔软的饺子，充满了绵羊的Milk Ricotta，搭配了蓝色的鸡肉搭配，搭配融化的黄油和碎的黑色松露。像Del Posto的所有意大利面一样，Bauletti都是技术奇迹，几乎太漂亮了，无法吃。但是无论您做什么，都不要坐着盯着他们。拉德纳（Ladner）完成了作业，使一盘宝莱蒂（Bauletti）从厨房到饭厅到毫秒到毫秒的烹饪，调味和运输和交付。 “If the timing is off,” he says, “the bauletti will continue to absorb sauce and kill the balance.” As the saying goes: Pasta waits for noone.
3.Lilia’s Rigatoni Diavola
567 Union Ave.，N。10thSt.;718-576-3095
Missy Robbins’s simplest pasta is her best — housemade rigatoni fashioned from semolina and extruded in the shape of big fat commas. They’re perfectly dressed — by which we mean thoroughly but sparely — and they exhibit the extra-firm but yielding texture one associates with the work of elite Italian grandmas. No wonder this pasta dish is Robbins’s own favorite. “It’s the one I want to eat every night,” she says. Us也。
4.Porsena’s Anelloni
21 E. 7th街。Third Ave.; 212-228-4923
Sara Jenkins could spoon her signature spicy lamb sausage and mustard greens over a plate of Ronzoni wagon wheels and the result would probably be good enough to find a place on this list. Instead, she uses an obscure pasta she smuggles in from Italy called anelloni — fat tubes of ridged pasta that wear their grooves on the inside, not the outside, and, as such, grip sauce in wonderful ways physicists once believed weren’t possible. Rigatoni, penne rigate, and radiatori have nothing onanelloni.
5.Babbo’s Garganelli
110 Waverly Pl., nr. Sixth Ave.;212-777-0303
是the case at Del Posto, singling out a pasta at Babbo that rises above the rest of the primi piatti is a fool’s errand. But we’ll go ahead and declare as the winner the garganelli with funghi trifolati — fresh egg-pasta squares folded into little, ribbed, Trump-size fingers and tossed with thinly sliced black trumpet mushrooms sautéed with garlic and parsley. If you don’t believe us, try Mario Batali’s great gift to pastavores, Babbo’s five-pasta-strong pasta tasting menu, and see for你自己。
6.Osteria Morini’s Spallina
218年拉斐特圣,nr。路透圣;212-965-8777
Spallina (“epaulette” in Italian) is what Osteria Morini calls its double ravioli — two separate rectangular pockets of handmade egg pasta fused together so that one side houses a gamey mince of rabbit meat, the other the soft white cheese from Emilia-Romagna called squacquerone. Why they don’t just mix the meat and cheese together into a single raviolo pouch, we don’t know. Maybe there’s an Italian cooking rule forbidding it. Or maybe the inventor of this pasta didn’t like different foodstuffs touching each other on the plate. Origin notwithstanding, the pasta finds delectable expression at Morini, whose kitchen drizzles it with a veal reduction and showers it with fresh favas. When it comes to spallina fillings, never the twain shall meet — and we’re okay withthat.
7.Esca的gnocchi
402 W. 43rdSt., at Ninth Ave.;212-564-7272
We’ve eaten our fair share of gnocchi in our time: the delicate morsels Marco Canora makes from Idaho potatoes and drowns in sage-infused butter at Hearth, the Franks’ denser but equally delicious gnocchi alla marinara at Frankies Spuntino, the ricotta puffballs Ignacio Mattos serves with mushrooms at Estela, and Jody Williams and Rita Sodi’s Gorgonzola-sauced flavor bombs at Via Carota. And let’s not forget April Bloomfield’s fiendishly good gnudi at the Spotted Pig, which are technically not gnocchi but in the same family. These are all Italian dumplings of the highest order and delicious things to eat. But if we were forced to pick one plate of gnocchi, our desert-island gnocchi, if you will, it would be the gnocchi di ricotta Dave Pasternack makes at his Italian seafood restaurant Esca — little lumps of dough shaped like wine corks in a bright tomato sauce mingled with cubes of buffalo mozzarella and garnished with fresh basil. Pasternack credits the sheep’s-milk ricotta he gets from Old Chatham Sheepherding Creamery, but there’s something to be said for technique, too, not to mention a trace of irony. Who’d have thought the best pasta at a piscine shrine would be the only one withoutseafood?
8.ribalta的意大利面
48 E. 12th街。百老汇；212-777-7781
“不要当你开车或操作重型机械angry” is a given. Cooking may be another matter. When native Neapolitans Rosario Procino and Pasquale Cozzolino discovered that the version of spaghetti pomodoro that Scott Conant popularized at L’Impero and later Scarpetta contained the heretical addition of butter, and, insult to injury, was widely perceived by the local yokels to be the last word on the subject, they were pissed. Butter and tomatoes go together, Procino and Cozzolino say, like Yoo-hoo and 18-year-old Scotch. So what did they do? They issued an official rebuttal in the form ofa finely tuned purist rendition of their own: a sauce-gripping spaghettoni from dried-pasta mecca Gragnano, tossed with basil and a rare variety of preserved cherry tomato of such spectacular Mt. Vesuvius–grown flavor that San Marzanos cower in its presence. One bite changes everything you thought you knew about spaghetti and tomato酱。
9。Sandro’s Spaghettini al Limone
306 E. 81st街。第二大道。212-288-7374
No one cooks classic Roman like that master of the pasta pot Sandro Fioriti. It’s to his plainspoken Upper East Side dining room that connoisseurs repair for bona fide bucatini all’amatriciana andspaghetti cacio e pepe。但是，据说他的标志性意大利面很奇怪，可以源自更南方的区域（除非您问桑德罗（Sandro），他说他自己发明了这道菜）。他用柠檬汁和用奶油乳化的阳光般的混合物扔掉了称为意大利面条的瘦意大利面条，并用帕马尼亚裔 - 雷吉亚诺（Parmigiano-Reggiano）刺耳的光泽。好可爱;咸很富有；干净。在眼睛和口感上，它令人震惊地简单，但同样令人惊叹it.
10.Bar Primi的扁面条，四瓣大蒜，面包屑
325 Bowery，2岁ndSt.;212-220-9100
尽管有吹牛，伸出手套的菜单（四瓣大蒜！），这是经典的Aglio，Olio e peperoncino，也许是面食菜肴史上最简单的意大利面。此列表中的原因？这是我们有史以来最好的Aglio，Olio，E Peperoncino有。