Best of New York

The Absolute Best Italian Hero in New York

Difonte的Nicky Special.Photo: Melissa Hom

Italian heroes (or subs, combos, or sandwiches) are made with cured meats, whole muscle and otherwise. Cheese is required, with greenery. Oil and vinegar, the Mulder and Scully of the sandwich world, should figure in, as should some kind of admirably architectural volume. And no matter its exact size, it should always call for an extra fistful of napkins. The city has many that fit this bill; here, the absolute best Italian sandwiches in New York.

The绝对Best

1.Difonte的
379 Columbia St., at Luquer St., Red Hook; 718-625-8052

Red Hook’s famed throwback deli isn’t just a place where anyone can get preposterously enormous sandwiches in the company of chipper cops, gruff sandhogs, and the ghosts of thousands of longshoremen who had exceptional taste in provolone. Defonte’s is really a foundational text of the Italian-American experience, a place where, starting in 1922, huge spiced hams were steamed, red peppers were roasted, and all sorts of prehistoric olives were brined and chopped up into spreads for giant loaves of bread, decades before the vast majority of Americans knew there was something called “pizza.” The oil-and-vinegar-stained Nicky Special, with capocollo, salami, and creamy fried eggplant (also Defonte’s “hot salad,” threaded with sliced cherry peppers, and marinated mushrooms) is one of its oldest, most enduring house specialties. Any one-third or half-sandwich, the two anachronistic ways to order portions here, pairs automatically with a 12-ounce Manhattan Special Espresso on the side, maybe because the Brooklyn soda company dates back to 1895.

2.吉米的著名英雄
1786 Sheepshead Bay Rd。,Nr。Sheepshead Bay Shore Pkwy。718-648-8001

吉米(Jimmy)的英雄。Photo: Melissa Hom

Victor Spadaro, the shop’s current owner, presides gregariously over the elevated counter like a salumi pulpit, often inviting customers to pop in the back to select their own hero bread. “The works” includes the standard cured meats, several condiments, and — bless its cool, nutrition-devoid heart — plenty of iceberg lettuce. Don’t be put off by the Boar’s Head logo; this is a radical alignment of deli meats and the oldest of old-school Brooklyn. Plus, they have rice balls.

3.Ends Meat
254 36th St., nr. Third Ave., Sunset Park; 718-801-8895

Ends Meat’s Hogfather with ‘nduja.Photo: Melissa Hom

行业城市的屠夫posse类似于罗宾·胡德(Robin Hood)的快乐男人,除了箭头,他们有刺刀。而且他们没有抢劫,而只是制作出色的三明治。Hogfather展示了House Mortadella and Fatty,百里香和摩西乳房固化的培根,以及普罗卧干酪和固定在温暖的面包上的Fixin。Charcuterie是由漫游猪肉制成的,包括附加的'Nduja选项。它与新墨西哥胡椒(Peppers)一起观看,这是卡拉布里安(Calabrian)原著的完全令人信服的替身。

4.Sal, Kris & Charlie’s
33-12 23rd Ave.,Astoria;718-278-9240

The real thing and worth the trip.Photo: Melissa Hom

这个蓝领地点的口号是“每天是假期的地方”,与其在职的客户群矛盾,最近的一个下午,其中包括一群侦探和南布朗克斯FDNY夹克的家伙。毫不震惊的是,有人会越过意大利人,野兽堆积的萨拉米语,prosciutto和mortadella,并带有透明的普罗卧干酪缓冲液。三明治有这样的追随者,管理层最近不得不警告客户骗局touting delivery to Manhattan.

5.Paneantico Bakery and Cafe
9124 Third Ave., Bay Ridge; 718-680-2347

Save room for dessert.Photo: Melissa Hom

The unofficial edict in Brooklyn is to make gargantuan heroes as if preparing a 5,000-calorie snack for a mythological construction worker, the kind of guy who tosses Smart cars blocking his parking spot. Paneantico skirts this, and we’re all better for it. The 148-item broadsheet menu includes the S42, or salami Calabrese, ham, and soft mozzarella. The elegant B37 is comprised of hot soppressata, pepato, and mushrooms on Royal Crown’s not-famous-enough brick-oven bread.

Honorable Mentions

Alidoro
多个位置

In Soho, the namesake sandwich is a relatively Spartan lineup of smoked chicken and dressed arugula. The Alidoro offered in midtown and at the tiny kiosk in Noho, however, is a bonanza of wispy, thin prosciutto, slathered with funky mushroom paste, crunchy fennel, hot spread, and draped with hot and sweet peppers. Whether on sfilatino or focaccia or semolina, both renditions are a solid bet.

法院街道杂货店
多个位置

A curveball of Swiss cheese bridges the flavor profiles of Pecorino and mozzarella; garlicky meats are mellowed by a left-field dab of mayonnaise, and the homemade spread of chopped peppers and olives is a binding delight. A Caputo’s roll is the most fitting bread in the universe for this enormously satisfying take, which reportedly took years to develop.

莱奥尼意大利英雄
7803 15th Ave., Bensonhurst; 718-232-1411

装饰绝对令人愉悦,工作人员少一些,因此在本森赫斯特目的地上,这是一个惊人的150个子类型。大多数人以发光(Marisa Tomei,茄子和莫兹)和较不亮(Scott Baio,很多肉和香蕉辣椒)的命名,均以发光(Marisa Tomei,茄子和Mozz)的名字命名,几乎都在两磅重的标记上方。

Make Sandwich
135 Fourth Ave., nr. 13th St.; 212-398-2602

康尼岛洋葱和红烧酸菜等调味品是乔什·沙基(Josh Sharkey)备受不足的一项巨大力量Bark Hot Dogs,所以厨师的最新状态真是太好了烹饪董事职位has now led to aïoli-smooth Italian dressing and pulverized giardiniera spread, which packs a high-dose vinegar punch into Make’s compact Combo, with prosciutto cotto, mortadella, salami, and sharp provolone.

Mekelburg’s
293 Grand Ave.,Nr。克林顿山克利夫顿·普尔(Clifton pl。);718-399-2337

Lioni Latticini马苏里拉奶酪好也随之而来ide a veritable Who’s Who of salumi greats: Golfera mortadella, Principe’s famed Tyrolean speck, along with domestic soppressata and coppa from Paul Bertolli’s Fra’Mani. Mekelburg’s opus is served on a sweet, seeded semolina roll, and despite its modest build, it packs more flavor than sandwiches three times its size.

Mike’s Deli
2344 Arthur Ave., nr. Crescent Ave., Melrose; 718-295-5033

David Greco is famously ambassadorial. His Arthur Avenue Market counter is the gravitational center of the Bronx’s Little Italy, and he’s serious when he says the hefty Combo, more torpedo than sub, has “a little bit of everything.” Layers of salty meat and cheese coil around a core of micron-thin onion and spicy green peppers, and it’s the ideal welcome to the block.

爸爸帕斯奎尔
7817 15th Ave., Bensonhurst; 718-232-1798

它与莱昂尼(Lioni)处于同一街区,并具有同样怀旧的三明治名称 - 古老的乌得勒支(Utrecht)是橄榄面包,普罗卧干酪和番茄 - 但尊敬的馄饨制造商的英雄不那么勇敢。这种方法使英雄成为了一个善良的英雄,并为支持演奏者的反帕斯蒂(如湿滑的烤红辣椒和丰满的朝鲜蓟心)偷走了他们所处的每一个三明治,都可以提供重要的开场。

Parisi Bakery
198 Mott St., nr. Kenmare St.; 212-226-6378

厨师喜欢柔软的巴黎面包。它已部署到目前Ando’shozon cheesesteaks, for example, and pops up on more menus in general than most diners realize. At the Little Italy original, paper-wrapped combos are generously meaty, with cool slabs of mozz that meld perfectly with the bread’s inimitable squish.

Regina’s Grocery
27 Orchard St.,Nr。海斯特街;347-680-4361

The avuncular Uncle John and Uncle Jimmy (prosciutto, smoked ham, hot soppressata, hot-pepper spread, the works) are served on seeded semolina or stirato, a loftier, more air-bubbly baguette. Regina’s itself is also brilliant, a stylized take on a crusty Brooklyn sandwich hangout that speaks to the younger, Air Jordan–launchcrowd while remaining recognizable to old-timers.

Salumeria Biellese
378 Eighth Ave., at 29th St.; 212-736-7376

很小,很高兴Honey, I Shrunk the Kids–style, to watch the legions of flavor-creating lactic-acid bacteria hard at work among the Berkshire pork soppressata. The famed salumeria hasn’t strayed from old-world curing techniques since their 1925 debut, which means Biellese’s fermentation-prone microbes are their own culinary dynasty. At this point, it’s well-known that the bread is hopelessly lackluster, and the $1 add-on charge for lettuce, tomato, and pickles continues to dampen the experience of some customers, but let’s be honest: The funky undertow of well-made salami is braving carbs and pointless garnishes, anyway.

Sunset Deli
4301 Fourth Ave., Sunset Park; 718-438-7244

Many attempts to unlock the secrets of this fantastically nondescript corner bodega, which works everyday magic with squeeze-bottle oil, Boar’s Head ham cappy, and gobs of humdrum lettuce. One possible explanation are crackerjack counter workers, who set their globe slicers dauntingly thinner than the competition, and who apply cold cuts in delicate rosettes, not solid, hammy layers.

The Absolute Best Italian Hero in New York