Best of New York

纽约绝对最好的法式吐司

At Sadelle’s, the challah is deep-fried.Photo: Melissa Hom

French toast is a dish that can sound staid and boring: good when it’s properly made, but ultimately just an easy way to use up day-old bread — sweet and straightforward and lacking exciting potential. But the chefs of New York should never be underestimated — and nor, they’ve proven, should French toast. You can get decent French toast almost anywhere that serves breakfast, but here is the absolute best and most interesting French toast in New York.

TheAbsoluteBest

1.萨德尔的
463 W. Broadway, nr. Prince St.; 212-254-3000

尽管这个受犹太人启发的Carbone-Torrisi Empire的前哨基于早餐,但它以其自制的百吉饼和熏制的tow塔而闻名,而不是法国吐司。但是鸡蛋面包恰好适合他们的脚,而鸡蛋面包则做出了伟大的法式吐司 - 事实证明,最伟大的吐司。您甚至可能不会在菜单上注意到它,但是当我们尝试它时,您会因其重量和纹理而惊讶;它的崎ggy,焦糖的表面和笨拙的硬皮角;它富有的内饰;每个咬人都激活了大脑的愉悦中心 - 一台服务器明知笑了。“那不是好吗?”他说。“我们深深地燃烧它。”那是一个肮脏的秘密,是天才的味道:它被鸡蛋,牛奶和肉桂浸泡过夜,然后浸在油炸锅中griddled to finish, so that it’s extremely dark and crispy, just shy of burnt. But, as insanely decadent as it sounds, it’s also pretty simple, and so manages not to read as over-the-top, even daubed with tart raspberry jam and drenched in maple syrup.

2.Kopitiam
51B Canal St., nr. Orchard St.; 646-894-7081

Photo: Melissa Hom

The tiny Malaysian breakfast-and-lunch counter Kopitiam is one of those restaurants that feels like a secret hidden in plain sight: It’s on a prominent block of Canal Street, near lots of hot spots, but it’s such a hole-in-the-wall that you’d probably walk right by it if you didn’t know to stop. There are plenty of reasons to pop in, but high on the list is the incredible and surprise-upon-surprising French toast. A small bowl comes towering with neat squares of fat, spongy white bread that’s been dunked in egg and condensed milk, dredged in an Ovaltine-like malt powder called Milo (made in Australia, but popular in Malaysia), then spread with butter and fried. The Milo’s deep, rich, almost savory chocolate flavor is balanced nicely by an extra drizzle of sweet, sticky condensed milk.

3.Russ & Daughters Cafe
127 Orchard St., nr. Delancey St.; 212-475-4881

Photo: Melissa Hom

Russ&Daughters的Chocolate Babka本身就是如此出色,很难想象它可以改善。但是,随着巧克力融化的丝带和表面变成金黄色和酥脆,鸡蛋浴和前往烤肉的旅行将其切成一个片段,并在其风味和质地上增加了笔记。新鲜浆果和糖粉和酸奶油的撒散射证明是完美的伴奏,无需糖浆 - 这使其成为一个非常无聊的菜肴,可包装和零食,以便以后再用一口气完成。

4.Fort Defiance
365 Van Brunt St., nr. Dikeman St., Red Hook; 347-453-6672

The pain perdu at this reliable Red Hook oasis is on the rustic side, made with two pleasingly thick slices of crusty, tangy country bread gently dipped in milk and egg, then griddled in butter for a caramelized finish, and topped with both blackberry and maple syrups, fresh blueberries, cinnamon sticks, and crunchy nut brittle. It also comes with a generous spoonful of mascarpone, and best of all, you don’t even have to order the side of bacon you were eyeing — it comes with two strips of Nueske’s.

5.Lalito
104 Bayard St., nr. Baxter St.; 646-998-3408

Part of what makes Gerardo Gonzalez’s cooking so exciting is his use of ingredients where you least expect them, but are delighted to find them — as illustrated by Lalito’s weekend-only ube French toast, which has a dense, almost flanlike consistency punctuated by swirls of slightly sweet, slightly starchy purple-yam paste and caramelized edges. There’s just a bit of syrup, pre-poured, and a mountain of tangy, high-quality yogurt that makes the dish, happily, as savory as it’s sweet, further balanced by a handful of fresh fruit (pomegranate seeds, maybe, or tiny cubes of persimmon) and a sprinkle of black-sesame seeds.

Honorable Mentions

Buttermilk Channel
524 Court St., nr. Huntington St., Carroll Gardens; 718-852-8490

There’s something slightly gimmicky about a mash-up French toast such as this one, which is meant to emulate pecan pie (a theme at this vaguely southern-inspired spot, where they also serve a pecan-pie sundae), but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t taste good. Huge wedges of eggy brioche French toast are drizzled in a syrupy caramel, then topped with powdered sugar and toasted pecans, with a dollop of whipped cream on the side.

城市面包店
3 W. 18th St., nr. Fifth Ave.; 212-366-1414

On weekends, the hot station in the back buffet area at City Bakery offers “caramelized French toast”: wedges of dense, slightly spongy bread (soaked in custard), pan-fried in butter and sugar so that it develops a deeply browned, crunchy surface. The result is as good as any classic French pastry — quite similar to a canelé, in fact — and just as easy to eat with your hands, with a cup of coffee.

Clinton Street Baking Co.
NR Clinton St. 4。E. Houston St。;646-602-6263

我们认为,这家旅游餐厅的法国吐司整天都在提供早餐经典,这比其著名的煎饼更好。褐色奶油蛋卷的大正方形铺有香蕉,烤山核桃和肉桂糖的严重焦糖片。但是,即使加入了克林顿街的标志性梅尔蒂枫黄油,这道菜也设法留在病的右侧。

Santina
820 Washington St., nr. Gansevoort St.; 212-254-3000

Another Carbone-Torrisi place, another deep-fried French toast, this one less astonishing than Sadelle’s but still top-notch, made with triangles of the traditional Italian sweet bread known as panettone, but without the customary raisins or candied fruit. A crisp, golden-brown shell, dusted generously with powdered sugar, shatters satisfyingly when you cut into it, giving way to the fluffy, citrusy bread. On the side are fresh berries or sliced banana, depending on the season, plus orange marmalade and maple syrup.

Sarabeth’s
多个位置

Sarabeth’s makes another good, if much less ambitious, challah iteration — simple and straightforward and satisfying, with shiny-crusted, egg-soaked, squishy slices griddled golden brown, accompanied by sliced strawberries and tiny ramekins of butter and maple syrup.

Shopsin的
Essex Street Market, 120 Essex St., nr. Rivington St.; no phone

与其他菜在Shopsin一样,都是about variety, and there are more than a few versions of French toast on the menu — dozens, in fact. “Slutty stuffed” is a good category, featuring sandwiches of two slices of bread — dipped in so much egg that a sort of omelettelike crust forms on their surfaces — filled with, say, chocolate-chip-almond butter, melting and oozing, or if you want to go full stoner, crushed Oreo and raspberry marshmallow fluff. The bread-pudding French toast is also very good, almost like matzo brei, but with chunks of crusty bread instead of matzo, tossed and scrambled with spicy maple bacon or sliced bananas, pecans, and brown sugar.

纽约绝对最好的法式吐司