In the latest issue ofNew York,Adam Plattsized up the revamped menu atMontmarte. The critic gave two stars for the standouts at Gabriel Stulman and Tien Ho’s Chelsea brasserie, like the fusion-y “pot-au-phô” with slices of “rosy pink sirloin” dispatched in a rich, deftly spiced oxtail broth, and an “elegant” kale tart. Where did the other critics dine? Find out, straight ahead.
Ryan Sutton revisitsCortonand updates histhree-star review from 2008. The critic finds a wide range of influences, “mindful consumption,” and brilliance to spare at Paul Liebrandt and Drew Nieporent’s fine dining Tribeca restaurant. Sutton marvels at the chef’s light touch with “custards and creams,” which demonstrate a sturdy old-growth of classic French technique beneath the vast assortment of newfangled ingedients like sea buckthorn and kaffir lime crips that taste like Trix cereal, “but in a good way.” Four stars.
Pete Wellsventures to the UES and visitsCaravaggio, which alternates between a calamitous mess with poor service and “depressingly earthbound” ricotta, and transcendent civilized dining with chicken meatballs and fine osso buco that keep him coming back. The appeal of “the fickle and expensive” restaurant is enough to warrant Wells future return, and be awarded a star.
Tejal Raodined atAlder, the long-awaited second project fromwd~50chef-owner Wylie Dufresne. Rao says the iconoclastic chef and chef de cusine John Bignelli have a brand-new bag new bag of modernist tricks. Some, like the New England clam chowder, succeed by reinventing the dishandstreamlining flavors like clams, bacon, and bay leaf. Others, like the tough dehydrated hot dog roll that firmly encases the nouveau pigs in a blanket, can essentially “be more curious than delightful.” Rao also praises Alder’s inventive cocktails. “Get a drink or three,” she writes.
Steve Cuozzopraises Matthew Aita’s simultaneous headiness and light touch atLe Philosophe. The place reminds him of “the less touristy, outer arrondisements.” He digs the blanc manger and black bass, awarding the restaurant two stars — despite “under-schooled waiters” — and says the restaurant is a welcome respite from the Brooklyn scene.
Robert Sietsemapays a visittoCole’sin the old Lyon space. TheVillage Voicecritic thinks that the presence of lentils in the potato leek soup is “annoying,” and elsewhere, the plancha-roasted chicken arrives appealingly burnished but tastes nondescript. The fries at the new bistro are decent; however, the strozzapreti in pork broth is stellar, and the wine list features a few worthy bargain bottles.
Jordana Rothmanheads tothe Pinesin Gowanus, a place where “poetic meals are now easier to find.” The locale may be remote but Rothman believes it’s worth the trek. Roberta’s alumni chef Angelo Romano serves a variety of enticing entrees, like the “gamey and rich” lambs neck. If the “folding chairs, amid peeling tin walls” aesthetic doesn’t bother you, then Rothman says you’re in for a treat and awards 4 out of 5 stars.
Hannah GoldfieldreviewsM. Wells Dinettefor《纽约客》, encountering what one server described with “Valley Girl affectation” as an “outrageous” slew of dishes. Quebecois chef Hugue Dufour continually seeks to impose a meaty revolution on New York’s cuisine with dishes like a “hunk of pork belly” married with duck-fat-fried pancake drenched in maple syrup. It’s a menu that reminds us of the axiom that French-Canadian blood is one part gravy and one part syrup, of which Goldfield approves.
Michael Kaminerof theDaily Newsis bummed about the lack of any standouts on the sprawling sushi and small plates-loaded menu offered at Sag Harbor-importSenin Flatiron. Fried snapper that’s supposed to be crispy tastes like “fishy bread,” maki rolls are “insipid,” yakitori is “gristly,” and the incongruous imposition of store-bought ice cream at dessert time is “lame.” A single, “sweet-sour cube of rice-vinegar gelee” is the only high point for the critic, which reluctantly gives the restaurant one star.
