Llama Inn就是关于新布鲁克林秘鲁的

“这是汤匙，”您的服务生将生鱼放在您面前时说道。“别忘了用汤匙，”其他人说道。“你使用汤匙了吗？”问主人检查碗。虽然一些餐馆向顾客推着瓶装水或白松露，但Llama Inn的工作人员似乎致力于演唱Silverware的赞美。

有一个充分的理由，实际上是两个：在质朴的陶器碗中汇集的多云长生不老药，在这里供应酸橘汁腌鱼和蒂拉迪托。这些秘鲁海鲜制剂是美食的亮点，更不用说这家新的威廉斯堡餐厅和可湿透的液体成分 - 酸味，浓郁，辣的酸，其中生鱼“厨师”是必不可少的，是必不可少的美味作为海鲜本身，有些人可能会说更多。

premillennial道格拉斯·罗德里格斯——的任何风扇led Nuevo Latino craze or the proliferation of Pio Pios and Coco Rocos can attest, there’s nothing new in New York about either ceviche or Peruvian food, which has been threatening to become the next big thing for years. But there is something new about Llama Inn, which opened in November in a trapezoidal terrarium of a space with glass walls jutting out like the bow of a ship toward the seamy underbelly of the BQE.

厨师埃里克·拉米雷斯（Erik Ramirez）是出生于泽西岛的第一代秘鲁裔美国人Eleven Madison Park和, more to the point, Nuela, the Nuevo Latino restaurant that eventually morphed into the Pan-Peruvian雷米，他成为行政总厨。

Ramirez calls Llama Inn a New York Peruvian restaurant, but a better term might be New Brooklyn Peruvian. It exhibits the familiar characteristics and culinary signifiers of its genre: the classically trained fine-dining chef casting off glitz and glamour for cheaper rent and a shaggy hipster clientele; the stripped-down menu and unfussy décor; the shared-plates mandate; coffee and cocktail programs that are as assiduously considered as the menu; neutral-toned, rough-hewn dishware crafted upstate by a cult potter.

不过，最有说服力的是食物，它是秘鲁风味和灵感的食物，但进行了调整，足以使其看起来个人和独特。拉米雷斯（Ramirez）是一位对比的主人，并奖励了紧缩，在这种情况下，科维娜·库维奇（Corvina Ceviche）采取了一堆清脆的车前草芯片的形式。在下面，甜炸车前草平衡了定义菜肴的浓缩汤（与石灰，辣椒，红洋葱和鱼类的经典开创性，拉米雷斯增加了dashi）。红鲷鱼蒂拉迪托（Tiradito）的稀薄滑动浸入Yuzu-Persimmon Leche de Tigre中，并用罂粟籽和蜜饯姜汁饰有。

生和烤的甜菜，往往与山羊奶酪一起搭配，也从甜酸的醋栗和烤玉米的脆弱中受益，而藜麦则从健康食品饲料转变为更迷人的东西。加入培根，香蕉和腰果。就像一个猫王花生 - 贝特 - 巴肯和烤三明治翻译成谷物碗一样。

Ramirez sources some of his most obscure ingredients directly from the homeland, like the papa seca, or freeze-dried potato he uses in a hashlike stew served with arctic char. But you get the sense that for him, as for many New York cooks of his generation, authenticity is not essential, or even desirable.

A duck-sausage dish nods to Peru’s popular arroz con pato, and hunks of tender goat neck are intermingled with dabs of potato purée and crowned with quinoa crisps. Both manage to be gutsy and dainty at the same time.

Of the two large-format dishes, the roast chicken is perfectly fine, but probably nothing you haven’t seen before — a well-cooked bird dwarfed by a mound of fat fried potatoes. The beef stir-fry,Ramirez’s twist on the Peruvian-Chinese classic lomo saltado另一方面，是纯天才。将肉用大豆和醋煮熟，撒上炸薯条，并呈现出精致的芝士薄饼，而不是传统的大米。目的是像您在当地的辣椒上一样接近菜花风格，用洋葱，西红柿，腌制的辣椒和鳄梨包裹肉类。诀窍是在不引起注意的情况下wand绕最后的煎饼。

You’ll probably want at least three people to do justice to those platters, but Llama Inn needn’t be a feast-only destination; excellent cocktails, many that plumb the hidden depths of pisco, the national grape-brandy spirit, make the bar a destination in its own right. (The Peruvian grilled-meat skewers called anticuchos are ideal bar snacks — try the fermented-soybean-slathered chicken thigh or the char siu pork.)

甜点是异国情调和舒适的相同部分，尤其是一种慕斯，它将秘鲁巧克力与热带水果卢卡玛（Lucuma）和脱水的咖啡馆泡沫的碎片融合在一起，这可能是Cosme玉米含量的玉米粉蛋糕的下一个最好的东西。

美洲驼旅馆
50 Withers St., at Meeker Ave., Williamsburg; 718-387-3434;llamainnnyc.com
打开：Nightly for dinner; weekend brunch.
Prices:$ 4至$ 48。
Ideal Meal:Corvina Ceviche，藜麦，山羊脖子，巧克力 - 卢库马甜点。
Note:Brunch highlights include mussels ceviche, a tortalike chicken-thigh sandwich, and a single-serving beef stir-fry topped with a fried egg.
Scratchpad:两颗恒星用于创造性食物，一颗用于认真的鸡尾酒，另外一颗用于友善的氛围。

*This article appears in the February 22, 2016 issue of纽约Magazine.