铺位和南边咖啡进入纽约的三明治万神殿
贪婪的50年代的浴室墙壁照片-era Elvis gobbling a sandwich tells you everything you need to know about假寐。双层都是关于沉迷食欲的。Bunk就是三明治的荣耀。顺便说一句，这几乎总结了地下美食的哲学。最近在威廉斯堡开业的反服务三明治商店是受欢迎的波特兰俄勒冈州的一个分支机构，由一群音乐家 - 库克（Musician Cooks）经营的迷你链，包括联合创始人汤米·哈贝兹（Tommy Habetz），他曾经在马里奥·巴塔利（Mario Batali）担任过卢帕sous-chef。
For his first Bunk foray outside Portland, Habetz hired Jake Adams, a former牛奶吧chef de cuisine, to oversee the kitchen. The sandwich-making modus operandi here is to start with the classics, then by judicious tweaking, scratch cooking, meticulous construction, and the use of outstanding bread and top-notch ingredients, improve upon them. This formula works like a charm. Take, for instance, the Cubano which crams pork belly, pork butt, good New Hampshire ham, Swiss cheese, and pickles into a crackly, well-smooshed roll, its innards swiped with mustard and drizzled with hot sauce. This substantial specimen is rich and tangy but streamlined enough to evoke the kind of sandwich you might find in an old-school Cuban luncheonette on Roosevelt Avenue. The fried-egg-and-cheese on a toasted poppy-seed Kaiser roll also deftly bridges the gap between crowd-pleasing classic and gourmet upgrade. It comes with sharp Oregon Cheddar and an optional choice of bacon, ham, or housemade pork sausage. Get the sausage, and for an umami sensation like no other, do as they do at the original Bunk and order it with add-on anchovies. (A note on the Kaiser rolls: They’re specially made for Bunk byBien Cuit’s Zachary Golper和they’re terrific — almost as dense and tight-crumbed as a bagel but with a mysteriously easy chew.)
As for the rest of the impressive roster, the roast-chicken salad with bacon and avocado is a contender. The meatball hero is spot-on. The tuna melt is un-mayo’d in favor of oil and balsamic, plus mustard and pickles, and tasty as can be. And an Italian combo that brings together ham, three cured meats from Oregon’s excellent Olympia Provisions, and a Mazzola hero roll could go up against any East Coast hoagie. If there’s an underperformer in the bunch, it’s the grilled Cheddar, undone by pain de mie sliced so thick it’s proportionately out of whack with the relatively spare amount of cheese.
双层床可以很容易地摆脱其标志性三明治和随身携带的水壶薯条袋，但厨房也证明了一些很棒的配菜。其中最主要的是用大蒜和辣椒烧毁的西兰花，一种壮观的马铃薯沙拉（添加培根和鸡蛋），以及炸薯条，炸毁了新奥尔良式的碎片肉汁，使迪斯科舞厅的竞争使迪斯科舞蹈竞争感到羞耻。对于甜点，请尝试巧克力片。毕竟，他们被用来帮助经营牛奶棒的家伙烘烤。
另一个出色的三明治新供应商可以在格林伍德高地（Greenwood Heights）伪装成伪装成第三波Java关节。已经有一段时间了，Southside Coffee一直为酿酒式的乔治·豪威尔（George Howell）的浓缩咖啡和滴水咖啡提供给欣赏的备用的备用的笔记本手和年轻母亲在埃戈巴比（Ergobaby）的吊索中抚养小便。But three months ago, partner Ben Jones (who also co-owns the restaurant Lot 2 across the street) added sandwiches to the lineup along with a talented sandwich-maker named Josh Sobel, and it’s safe to say that Southside Coffee is now as much a destination for Italian heros, tuna melts, and bacon-egg-and-cheese sandwiches as it is for cortados and macchiatos.
索贝尔的善意包括在三明治发电厂的厨房里面Court Street Grocers和英里端熟食和血统表演。他的每个三明治都简直就是一流。与Bunk一样，重点是升级经典。因此，土耳其英雄的火鸡在地段2, then loaded with Swiss, lettuce, avocado, and pickled red onion onto a Sriracha-mayo’d Caputo roll. It’s moist, solid, satisfying. Ditto the tuna melt with sweet housemade bread-and- butter pickles on pan-griddled multigrain bread. There’s also much to love about the juicy Italian combo (mortadella, salami, soppressata). It comes with sliced onion, iceberg lettuce, provolone, and Parmesan, and a three-pronged approach to lubrication: a classic oil-and-vinegar dressing, a piquant muffaletta-like olive-and-pepper spread, and a swipe of Duke’s mayonnaise. Yes, among the cognoscenti, dressing Italian heros with mayonnaise — and not even Hellmann’s! — is considered an outrageous act of desecration akin to dousing USDA prime steak with Heinz. But it’s a trick Sobel learned during his stint at Court Street Grocers, and the practice is apparently winning over skeptics, the Underground Gourmet included.
As delicious as the above concoctions are, Southside’s masterwork is the drippy, soul-soothing, hangover-quashing Southside breakfast sandwich: unfathomably fluffy scrambled eggs, Heritage Meats ham, Cheddar, pickled onion, and “breakfast mayo” on a toasted brioche roll. What, you ask, is breakfast mayo? Well, it’s a riff on red-eye mayo, a recipe Sobel freely admits borrowing from the Momofuku cookbook. His take is essentially housemade mayo mingled with maple syrup, Dijon mustard, and George Howell coffee grounds, and something that once sampled you’ll crave forever.
Southside还以糕点和苹果派而闻名，由2个糕点厨师琥珀萨瑟（Amber Sather）烤制。在周末，这种年轻的糖味派遣了一批新鲜烤制的酪乳饼干，这些饼干用鸡蛋，培根和腌制的墨西哥胡椒。一个人的承诺足以使最深层的卧铺人成为最深的卧铺，但是很高兴地，贝斯饼干（和其他所有早餐三明治）可以使用非常文明的时间，即下午3点。- 至少直到饼干用完为止。
假寐
740 Driggs Ave.，Nr。S. 2nd St.，Williamsburg；347-763-0434;bunksandwiches.com
打开：每天吃早餐，午餐和晚餐。
价格：$ 3至$ 12。
理想餐：猪肚古巴，
debris fries.
Note:寻找每日特价汤，例如恒星的火鸡辣椒。
便笺：固体三明治的两颗恒星，一颗用于碎薯条。
Southside Coffee
652 Sixth Ave., at 19th St., Greenwood Heights; 347-927-4870;southsidecoffeenyc.com
打开：每天吃早餐和午餐。
价格：$ 6至$ 12。
理想餐：Southside breakfast sandwich, coffee.
Note:House-baked pastries are available Tuesday to Saturday.
便笺：一颗恒星用于周到的填充物，另一个用于仔细的结构，三分之一的饼干。
*This article appears in the December 14, 2015 issue of纽约杂志。
