地下美食：一位Momofuku的老兵在整个

Kevin Pemoulie spent four years simmering the bacon dashi atMomofuku Noodle Bar，但看来他已经离开了拉面的日子，以及曼哈顿的高风险美食界。六个月前，您知道，厨师和他的妻子亚历克斯（Alex）打开了Thirty Acres在泽西城。我们听到您说的是什么？泽西城？这不是为巡回地下美食而界限的市政当局吗？这一发展是否会增强公共传播模式的转变，尤其是在布鲁克林结合的食品Cognoscenti中？

事实证明，J.C.与威廉斯堡一样易于使用，距离西村只有两条短路。实际上，美国联合国每当有蔓越莓 - 巴尔伯酱酱烟熏鹌鹑的冲动时，都会成为一种路径训练的存在，使反向晚餐通勤。从格罗夫街车站（Grove Street Station）五分钟的轻快小跑将您带到一个安静的角落，窗户周围的窗户缠绕着装有打捞的教堂长椅，坚固的木桌和工业灯具。该空间是时尚的备用空间，带有铜顶杆，只有在习惯性酒精限制期间才能看到BYO动作。

尽管有小酒馆的环境，但不要越过这个门槛来寻找培根芝士汉堡。三十英亩还有其他想法，即成为泽西城邻里联合的含义。Momofuku Aficionados将以古怪的菜单格式，发明的生鱼制剂和出色的泡菜板（从甜蜜到辣）来检测其DNA。If there’s a comparison to be made, it’s that Thirty Acres is like a mom-and-pop Momofuku, more amenable to customer demands (“We can make food veg friendly, but only if you’re friendly,” reads a note on the menu). Another concession: After diners expressed the desire for heartier portions, Pemoulie modified his opening small-plates lineup to include more traditional entrées. Still, at best, his is a cuisine not of appeasement but of bravura and style, invoking American traditions while evolving them into intriguing new forms. One night’s raw black sea bass, for example, is festooned with sauerkraut, apple mustard, and rye-bread crumbs. It’s sushi for the deli maven. Baked clams are seasoned with togarashi, and mussels in broth are enlivened with Sichuan pepper and kielbasa. You sop it up with toasted ciabatta like someone who fears it may be taken away too soon.

尽管它简短，但菜单是本季节的电报，以及秋季最好的代表可能是上述烟熏鹌鹑，配以核桃面包布丁，这将使您重新考虑感恩节的计划。蘑菇沙拉同样秋天，直到盘子上的切碎的南瓜滑动。但是在其他地方，季节性的触动可能是无偿的。虽然自制意大利面非常棒，质地和丰富的风味，但您想知道一碗与香肠，西葫芦，薄荷和意大利乳清干酪混合在一起的凝聚力碗是否需要甜蜜的丁香丁香。坚果，耐嚼的拼写也有很多事情要做：Pancetta，Redicchio，奶油海胆和亚洲梨。当然，聪明，但是这种组合证明了质地令人震惊，就像在一堆格兰诺拉麦片上吃烤的鹅肝一样。（不，再等一下，这听起来不错；无论如何，您明白了。）帽子形的卡佩莱蒂（Cappelletti）塞满了意大利乳清干酪和茄子的混合物，不那么新颖，但更令人满意。

The same can be said of the mains. Steaklike slabs of duck breast come with maple-and-cumin-spiced carrots in a bowl smeared with jerk sauce, and the pork chop is a hefty refutation of the small-plates trend. Though whole brook trout trumps them both with its super-moist flesh, lime mayo, and zesty cabbage infused with Old Bay.

In its short life, Thirty Acres has already garnered a cadre of fervent followers—young and older, birthday-party revelers and the solitary diner lingering over a bottle and a book—and the atmosphere is at once festive and familial, in and out of the kitchen. (Dine at the bar and you get a glimpse of the Red Bull-chugging cooks cheerfully pulling together to get out the pork chops; toward the end of the shift, one recent Saturday night, they celebrated as if they had just won anIron Chef战斗。）有两个甜点；您想要的是“凯文的妈妈”柠檬吧，蛋bar的蛋饼和粘糊糊的答案，就像精神振奋的新餐厅本身一样，也是不可抗拒的。

Thirty Acres
泽西城韦恩街500号大街500号；201-435-3100
Hours:Dinner Monday through Thursday 6 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday till 11 p.m.; Saturday brunch 11 a.m.to 3 p.m.
Prices:$4 to $27.
Ideal Meal:Cucumber pickles, smoked quail, cavatelli or trout.
Note:The terrific Jersey Wine & Spirits three doors down will satisfy all your BYO needs.
Scratchpad:两颗星星用于创意烹饪；另外两个用于活泼但文明的氛围和现场服务。

See more about the Momofuku Diaspora.

*This article originally appeared in the October 29, 2012 issue of纽约杂志。