普拉特：Gaonnuri的目标是提高标准Koreatown关节的标准

“除了我们在这里，这家餐厅可能在韩国，”我明智的，中西部的婆婆看着她凝视着熙熙,，Gaonnuri, which opened several weeks back on the 39th floor of 1250 Broadway, overlooking Koreatown and Herald Square. My mother-in-law has never been to Korea, as it happens. As far as I know, she had never been to a Korean restaurant before. She does not know what kimchee is, and if she did, she’d probably seal it in a Tupperware container and confine it to the nearest hazmat bin. My mother-in-law has never experienced the glories of mandoo dumplings or sweet japchae noodles or bibimbap. She isn’t a fan of red meat, or barbecue in general, and on the rare occasion that she does order a steak back home in the suburbs of Detroit, she instructs the kitchen to broil it at such a high heat that the end product has to be cut with the proverbial hacksaw.

然而，像往常一样，中西部智慧的内核
我的岳母不得不说这家雄心勃勃的大城市餐厅。Modish餐厅凭借其轻轻刺激的迪斯科唱片和全景摩天大楼的景色，不像是经典的Koreatown关节Lost in Translation。On the evenings I visited, the tables were filled with young couples snapping pictures of their food with brightly colored cameras and parties of business folk toasting each other with bottles of sweet-potato soju. An installation of traditional Korean moon jars floats above the bar, and if you squint your eyes after a drink or two, the twinkling lights across the river in Jersey City look suspiciously like the suburbs of Seoul.

Gaonnurimeans “center of the world” in Korean, and the proprietors, who are based in New York, have clearly designed their restaurant as an international showplace for what they call “authentic” Korean cooking. Within minutes of sitting down, our table was buried in a small avalanche of old Koreatown favorites, like gummy but nourishing mandu, various savory jun pancakes (we liked the nokdoo jun, made with mung beans), and fatty squares of pork-belly bossam garlanded with fronds of properly ripe kimchee. My mother-in-law, predictably, turned up her nose at the kimchee and bossam, although she made polite noises about the mandu soup (dduk mandoo guk), which contains threads of soft rice cakes hidden in its beefy depths. Her adventurous husband, on the other hand, couldn’t get enough of the sesame-laced beef tartare (yukhoe) or the lava-colored yuk ge jang spicy beef soup, which he apparently took home and drank the next day with his morning coffee.

Gaonnuri’s executive chef, Tae Goo Kang, comes from Seoul, but not all of the dishes on his large, slightly overstuffed grab bag of a menu have the same spicy, visceral bite. My wet, overdressed calamari salad cost $15 and tasted like the kind of Nobu knockoff you’d find in the dining room of an anonymous second-tier international hotel. There are five versions of appropriately sizzling bibimbap on the menu (try the classic dolsot bibimbap, served in a hot stone bowl), but, to the relief of the Midwesterners at the table, just one of them came with the traditional raw egg broken on top. The Midwesterners enjoyed their taste of another Nobu-style creation called black-cod gui, however (baked in miso and garnished with a dab of very un-midwestern bean paste), and after prodding it with her fork for a minute or two, my mother-in-law declared that the addictively sweet house version of japchae noodles was so good that she might actually take a second bite.

按照悠久的Koreatown的传统，大豆腌制的Galbi（短肋骨），Chadolbaeki（Brisket）和Hyo Mitt Gui（牛肉舌）在Gaonnuri的桌上烤了拍打的银钳。您可以以各种昂贵的组合订购烧烤，但我建议将用餐的烤蛋白部分放在单点。腌制的烤肉烧烤味的腌制不如干燥和煮熟，与蒸熟的老板不同，我们的烧烤猪肚没有任何正宗的猪肉味。因此，请坚持旧的红肉类经典，例如用“签名酱”腌制的短肋骨，牛ket的不同切割和粉红色的小心肋眼，这些肋骨被带到桌子上，上面放在桌子上腌制蔬菜（萝卜，胡萝卜，更多的泡菜），分成一堆白色的白色碗。

像第34街以下的大多数场所一样，Gaonnuri在大风暴中关闭了，但是大型盒子的运营又恢复了，并提供了豪华的午餐服务以及各种精美的美食菜肴。价格在午餐时间更合理，当时没有Entrée的价格超过15美元（相比之下，晚餐时为34美元），您可以享受20美元的Bento风格的Bansang Bansang Bansang午餐盒Galbi，蔬菜和汤，同时在Great King Kong View the Great Kong the Great the Kong the of隔壁的帝国大厦。There’s a small selection of sugary white wines (including five Chardonnays) and robust reds (some Argentine Malbecs, six California Cabs) to go with your barbecue, and if you feel like finishing your meal with a grandiose, faux-gourmet dessert, there are those, too. They include a brick-hard baked Alaska (dutifully flambéed tableside in a fiery cloud of rum) and a tea-green yuzu parfait, which my mother-in-law praised, after pausing judiciously to gather her thoughts, for its “lime overtones” and “soft, comforting texture.”

Gaonnuri

1250 Broadway, nr. 32nd St.; 212-971-9045

小时：周一至周六下午5点晚餐到午夜。午餐星期一至周六中午至下午2:30

价格：Appetizers, $14 to $25; entrées, $18 to $34.

Ideal Meal:Nokdoo君煎饼,japchae面条或mandoo,布鲁里溃疡lgogi rib eye and marinated galbi barbecue, kimchee and assorted vegetables, yuzu parfait.

笔记：酒吧提供Galbi滑块和其他各种饮酒小吃。在房间的东北一侧吃掉它们，并欣赏了帝国大厦的令人印象深刻的景色。

Scratchpad:经典的Galbi烧烤的半星，另一半可欣赏到壮丽的景色。

*本文最初出现在2012年11月19日的《New York Magazine.