在他送出菜的塞夫鲁加鱼子酱或小小的鹌鹑塞满了鹅肝的小泥中，乔尔·鲁布琴（JoëlRobuchon）很久以来，他曾经散发出米兰的小鱼子酱或小小的鹌鹑，这是不合适的。著名的法国厨师，今天去世年龄73岁，，，，was one of four children who lived in a cramped apartment above a cobbler’s shop in a small town. One of his only options for change was to enroll in seminary to become a priest, and he seized it. He was 12.
Robuchon’s parents divorced三几年后，在危机的时刻，未来的厨师想起了他所经历的少数固定经历之一 - 与修女一起烹饪工作日晚餐 - 使其成为了一个基础stratospheric, world-changing career。
即使在早期，他也获得了奖项：在所有人的账户都是一个艰苦的厨房学徒制之后，罗布钦仍在20岁以下，他的烹饪赢得了五枚竞争奖牌。与厨师和他的导师让·戴维恩（Jean Delaveyne）一起，罗布钦（Robuchon）首次去日本旅行，然后返回他的第一家餐厅。在他的第二个Jamin在巴黎，厨师在1981年从零米其林星星赢得了前所未有的上升到1984年的三个。他将继续获得比世界上任何其他厨师更多的米其林明星。
“名人厨师”的概念可以追溯到Paul Bocuseand罗杰·韦尔格（RogerVergé）。(The latter, in particular, seemed perpetually amused by fame after being “discovered” in 1972 by Shep Gordon, who took a break from managing the likes of Alice Cooper and the Pointer Sisters to promote nouvelle cuisine.) Robuchon never fit in with these chefs. He was too young to qualify for membership in the so-called “Bande à Bocuse,” and as his cooking began to gain prominence in the ’80s, Robuchon was so private that interviewers weren’t even sure whether he was married. At cooking demos, he was discernibly unenthused by the prospect of wearing a lapel mic, even in auditoriums packed with devout fans.
然而，当他被任命为“世纪的厨师”时，他可能不愿意成名。它被授予Gault Millau在1990年，它说的是，它一直呆了十年，然后进入了新世纪及以后。当他的时候，标签与他同在“退休，”迈克尔·乔丹（Michael Jordan）风格，从51岁的烹饪开始，成为一名欢快的电视厨师，并在2003年未退休以开设自己的“ Atelier”餐厅连锁店。
也许最令人吃惊的事这些厨师的s counters was that they managed to detach fine dining from any sense of place. For the luxury ingredients that filled out his menu, Robuchon took sourcing to an extreme: Urchin from Hokkaido might touch down in Paris at the same moment spears of white asparagus from Provence hit the Las Vegas tarmac. L’Atelier outposts, which have numbered nearly two dozen around the world, are all decked out in the same handsome black and red visual cues. The rooms are decidedly un-atmospheric, but not airless, because the cooks working just in front of customers are intended to be the most breathtaking aspect.
因此，烹饪很少在其演示文稿中令人失望。鱼子酱的Quenelles被固定在原始的乳化花椰菜的原始团块中，煮熟的鱼在上面放着精密的黑色粗壮的灌木丛。像他的导师Delaveyne一样，Robuchon总是从日本传统中自由地借来。对于Robuchon最著名的菜肴之一，他的厨师在酱油和经典小牛肉中的日本鳗鱼片“焦糖”片。这些设置在陶土中，上面放着冷烟的鹅肝，并饰有咸味奶油。
His talent for seamlessly mingling old and new is what made Robuchon’s influence so immeasurable. As you have no doubt already read today, his signature recipe will forever be his impossibly exacting pommes purée. But just as “Robuchon potatoes” is shorthand for the particularly silky side dish, the long list of techniques that Robuchon’s kitchens introduced over the chef’s career has become a kind of lingua franca for line cooks, even if they aren’t aware of it. In the 1980s — while working on a project to update meals served by the state-owned French railway service — Robuchon began to use sous-vide cooking, the now-widespread use of preparing proteins in vacuum-sealed bags and slowly cooking then in carefully tempered water baths. That is to say: Robuchon introduced sous-vide to his kitchens decades before the technique was a blip on the radar screens of modernist chefs of the 2000s and beyond.
For cooks interested in becoming great chefs themselves, a stint working for Robuchon could be a demanding but eye-opening experience. Joan Roca of Spain’sCeller de Can Roca，经常在“World’s 50 Best”餐厅清单，在Robuchon的领导下度过了一段时间，Suga，Matthew Kirkley和Tom Aikens也是如此。David Bouley在杰明的厨房里度过了两个关键的月份。并在his 2016 memoir，，，，Le Bernardin’s Eric Ripert wrote that he had recurring nightmares about the tiny dots of sauce —总共90，，，，of uniform size, spaced equidistantly — that Robuchon required his cooks to put on each plate of lobster salad. Nevertheless, “Joël Robuchon was not violent,” Ripert told美国国家公共电台。“And he was not a screamer.” (Later in his career, Robuchon did acknowledge the culture of fear he perpetuated, but insisted that he only ever threw一盘; it contained langoustine ravioli, which had been cooked incorrectly by a young Gordon Ramsay.)
近年来，Robuchon继续着手进行令人惊讶的新项目。蒙特利尔有一个柜台，在Roppongi的一家面包店和Foie Gras Croque Madames。今年春天，Robuchon带着清酒制作人达萨（Dassaï管悬挂在天花板上。就在去年，他重新开放了L'Atelier的纽约。与以往一样，他似乎意识到烹饪万神殿，但也许不确定自己在其中的位置。他said当时。“我想成为其中的中断。”