这个月的美食杂志中最好的故事都是关于旧的。Saveur,这是今年的第一个Saveur100页,摘录自英国文学协会1937年未出版的作品,美国饮食是一部记录美国饮食方式的纪录片,现在才得以重见天日;这里摘录的图像是唤起和美丽的,让我们渴望看到美国饮食这本书(最终)将于今年晚些时候出版。美食致力于南方烹饪,有一本精彩的,以前未出版的《什么是南方?》,由已故的埃德娜·刘易斯(Edna Lewis)撰写。祝你有个好胃口还有一个“绿色问题”,上面有一篇很长的文章蓝山还有一本由香肠大师布鲁斯·艾德尔斯(Bruce Aidells)撰写的环保肉类指南,以及一篇感人的文章,讲述了一位素食主义者因为香肠而重新回到吃肉的行列。美食与美酒这本书有点无聊,主要由“2008年要尝试的口味”(Tastes to Try in 2008)的列表组成,其中大部分都缺乏细节,而明显的内容却很多。(Fiamma有了新厨师!)最后,食物的艺术这本书要到本周晚些时候才会出版,其中有一篇关于牛肉的主要服务专题,还有一篇由法国烹饪学院(French Culinary Institute)技术能手戴夫·阿诺德(Dave Arnold)撰写的关于水胶体的文章。水胶体是一种在分子美食界很受欢迎的明胶。
The best stories in this month’s crop of food mags are old. Saveur, which leads the year off with the Saveur 100, runs highlights from the WPA’s unpublished 1937 opus, America Eats, a documentary record of American foodways that is only now seeing the light of day; the images excerpted here are evocative and beautiful and make us eager to see the America Eats book to be published (finally) later this year. Gourmet is devoted to southern cooking, with a wonderful, previously unpublished “What Is Southern?” leadoff essay by the late Edna Lewis, formerly of Café Nicholson. Bon Appétit goes with a “Green Issue” with a long piece by Blue Hill’s Dan Barber on vegetables, an ecofriendly meat guide by sausage guru Bruce Aidells, and a moving essay on a vegetarian who returns to the meat wagon because of sausages. Food & Wine is something of a bore, consisting mostly of lists of “Tastes to Try in 2008,” most of which were short on detail and long on obviousness. (Fiamma has a new chef!) Finally, Food Arts, which won’t come out till later this week, has a major service feature on beef, along with an essay by French Culinary Institute techno whiz Dave Arnold on hydrocolloids, a class of gelatins big in molecular-gastronomy circles.">
