“我love a dish where everything is not what is seems,” writes the chef, Wylie Dufresne, inwd~50: the Cookbook.The book, which Dufresne co-wrote with Peter Meehan, is his first. It’s out on October 17, almost three years after wd~50 closed for good. In other words, the book is a little late, no? Dufresne acknowledges as much in the first line of his introduction, writing that he hoped to create something that could do for young cooks what “greats” like Michel Bras’sEssential Cuisine为他做了：即，提供灵感并了解整个餐厅的创作过程。（这本书还对除了使WD 〜50的杜夫雷斯（Dufresne）之外的所有人都非常关注。）
对于那些从来没有机会在餐厅吃饭的人，但一直想知道油炸蛋黄酱的味道是什么，这本书也会做到这一点，因为这首先是最重要的食谱。虽然这不是超级诱惑的现代主义美食–style tome, it’s hardly a conventional cookbook. Dufresne and Meehan devote an entire chapter to unusual foie gras and another to nonconventional noodles (“by using meat glue and gelatin together, we found we could create noodles out of pretty much anything”).
The book offers insight into the thinking behind the restaurant, including Dufresne’s obsession with a certain German specialty (“we went crazy with spätzle”), and Alex Stupak’s Universal Theory of Peanut Butter and Jelly (in short: You can pair any food that’s nutty, salty, and sweet with one that’s fruity, sweet, and acidic). In New York,wd~50’s influenceis hard to avoid, and this is clear from the giant family tree that Dufresne managed to cultivate there, and the cameos — from chefs like J.J. Basil and Stupak — sprinkled throughout the book. Below, take a look inside, andhead hereto order a copy.
