就像他继续loveMamacita, and recently reaffirmed its place on theTop 100,Mr. Baueris officially in love with its Cole Valley spinoffPadrecito. He says today not only that “you can expect Padrecito to be added [to the Top 100] next year,” but that it “signals the rise of Mexican restaurants across the Bay Area.” He cites the critical mass of such upscale Mexican now extant following the openings of Comal in Berkeley, Mateo’s in Healdsburg, and Nido in Oakland (which he’ll be reviewing shortly), and all these followed the opening of Nopalito over four years ago. He calls out unusual dishes like the pulled duck tacos with arbol strawberry marmalade, and the “soulful” ensalada manchega, and he says chefs Luis Contreras and Sam Josi have given humble chilaquiles “opera-worthy refinement.” And he appreciates that the menu’s dishes are “modern interpretation[s] that respect traditions.” All told, just like Mamacita, he gives the place three stars. (But for the first time since thestart of theChronpaywall, he doesn’t provide a free link to the full review.) [Chron,Between Meals,Roth’s earlier take]
