Following the lead of newcomers Izakaya Ten and Zenkichi, the once-formal Takayama has reinvented itself as Ariyoshi, an izakaya with a sushi bar boasting a lengthy menu of tempura, yakitori, noodles, and assorted plates like veal-liver sashimi. Though sake barrels and light boxes decorated with bamboo give the narrow, high-ceilinged space a serene vibe a world away from the noisy Japanese St. Marks dives (there’s also a small private room in the back), the prices are reasonable: $2 for two gelatinous hunks of beef tendon in a stock of octopus, egg, radish, and tofu (there are ten other varieties of oden stew, too), and $2 for a skewer of salted chicken hearts. The toro tartar, one of the priciest dishes at $13, is a tuna portion large enough to feed two, topped by a quail egg sitting in a nest of flying-fish eggs. They're not serving cod sperm yet, but the manager says he’s considering it. —Daniel Maurer
Ariyoshi, 806 Broadway, nr. 12th St., 212-388-1884.">
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托罗塔塔，还有很多鸡蛋。照片:Daniel Maurer
跟随新来者的脚步酒屋十和Zenkichi在美国，曾经正式的高山县已经改头换面，更名为Ariyoshi酒屋寿司吧拥有一个冗长的菜单天妇罗，烤鸡肉，面条，和各种盘子像小牛肝生鱼片。虽然清酒桶和用竹子装饰的灯箱给这个狭窄、高天花板的空间带来了一种宁静的氛围，远离了喧闹的日本圣马可餐厅(后面还有一个小的私人房间)，但价格也很合理:两美元(约合人民币332元)的两大块胶状牛筋，配以章鱼、鸡蛋、萝卜和豆腐(还有其他十种炖菜)，一串腌鸡心售价2美元。toro鞑靼是最昂贵的菜肴之一，售价13美元，是一份足够两个人吃的金枪鱼，上面放着一窝飞鱼蛋，上面放着一颗鹌鹑蛋。他们不上菜鳕鱼精子还没有，但是经理说他正在考虑。丹尼尔毛雷尔
有吉，百老汇大街806号，12号th圣。212-388-1884。
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