奇异的食物主持了威尼斯的安德鲁·齐默恩（Andrew Zimmern）“One of the true dirty secrets in this business is that people like me end up eating a lot of bagels in talk show green rooms.”
Red Medicine Overcomes Sour Taste in Gushing Post-Scandal ReviewJay Weston gushes, “This restaurant shall overcome that situation and rise forth to shine in the reflected glory of the three guys who dreamed the dream, walked the walk, and brought it to fruition.”
Varietal Finds Its Man: Wayne NishWayne Nish, who already has a namesake venue with Nish, will now take over the kitchen at Varietal, too, replacing Ed Witt. Varietal owner Greg Hockenberry implied earlier that he’d fired Witt; Witt informs us that he left of his own accord — because the restaurant was going more “mainstream.” (Avant-garde dessert chef Jordan Kahn also quit, presumably under similar pressure. He declined to comment when we spoke with him.) Restaurant Girl, who broke news of the hire, reports that Nish will implement a $48 prix fixe menu — and serve as his own dessert maker. That sounds more mainstream to us, but the imaginative Nish no doubt has his own ambitions. Find out April 6, when he steps up to the plates. Varietal - Bruni Aftershocks [Restaurant Girl]
新闻源
品种的Ed Witt粉红色塞满；乔丹·卡恩（Jordan Kahn）显然正在出门Eater reports that Ed Witt, Varietal’s head chef, is leaving. The restaurant’s critical reception has been less than absolutely stellar, with Adam Platt giving it two stars and Frank Bruni awarding it one (out of four). “I think it would be silly to say that [the reviews] didn’t play a part,” owner Greg Hockenberry tells us, confirming the departure. Was Witt fired? “We’ve been looking to make a change for a while.” Okay. What about Jordan Kahn, the postmodern dessert whiz Eater earlier claimed is on the way out? “We’ll be making an announcement about that, too,” Hockenberry says. Uh-oh. Best of luck to both of the chefs, then. EaterWire: Ed Witt Leaving Varietal [Eater] Related: Varietal’s ‘Meditation in Purple’: Need We Say More?
Neighborhood Watch
Village Rats Also Eat Vegetarian切尔西：品种糕点厨师乔丹·卡恩（Jordan Kahn）以其抽象的甜点而闻名，现在是弗兰克·布鲁尼（Frank Bruni）的大满贯，可能会辞职。[Eater] Greenpoint：在Greenpoint Avenue和Franklin Street都发现的未识别的即将开业的餐厅。[Gowanus Lounge]格林威治村：健康食品Mecca Gobo为Rat-Video的热潮做出了贡献。[纽约尔科]下东区：Chickie Pig's将很快开放，但他们可能永远不会喝酒。[NYO] Midwood：Difara希望在星期六重新开放；停下来，如果只是为了确认Dom DeMarco会戴帽子。[纽约尔科]默里山：野生食品现在有一个餐厅。[哥谭主义者]
其他批评家
对莫兰迪的决斗观点；属于任务的品种Morandi gets absolutely slaughtered by Steve Cuozzo. Keith McNally has hardly received a bad review yet. [NYP] Meanwhile, Moira Hodgson loves the place: “You’ll want to taste everything on this menu.” She seems to have liked all of it, with the possible exception of an overpriced veal chop. Did these two even go to the same restaurant? [NYO] Bruni one-stars Varietal, calling the food creative but uneven and lambasting avant-garde dessert chef Jordan Kahn, who has enjoyed a lot of critical love. The desserts “don’t so much eschew convention as pummel and shatter it — literally, and often pointlessly.” [NYT]
