Jonathan Waxman Is So Over Farm Chickens可以说乔纳森·瓦克斯曼(Jonathan Waxman)已经升到了鸡的翅膀上,他的烹饪熟悉尚未抛弃他。厨师的纽约餐厅巴布托(Barbuto)本周收到了弗兰克·布鲁尼(Frank Bruni)的一星级评论,而且,在他的八十年代明星车上,鸡肉是关注的中心。我们与他讨论了家禽,为贝尔和埃文斯鸡提供服务,以及de Bresse的费用。
The Other Critics
巴布托被鸡肉救了;Fiamma很短The wildly uneven Barbuto earns a single star from Frank Bruni, almost entirely on the strength of a well-roasted Bell & Evans chicken. To quote Winston Churchill, “Some chicken!” [NYT] Alan Richman was appalled by how small the portions were at Grayz, how much they cost, and how shady most of them were, except for the magnificent, world-beating short rib: “In complexity and satisfaction, this dish reminded me most of the Gray Kunz of Lespinasse, the chef we miss so much.” [Bloomberg] Randall Lane gets that Fiamma’s Fabio Trachocchi is cooking in a grand, Continental style and doesn’t hold that against him, but the food is too rich and the service too sloppy to give him the five or six stars the place would have liked And so they have to settle for four. [TONY]
Mediavore
Chef Cliques Revealed; More T-Day Dining Options弗兰克·布鲁尼(Frank Bruni)试图将厨师网络放在一起,发现吉米·布拉德利(Jimmy Bradley)与小猫头鹰的乔伊·坎帕纳罗(Joey Campanaro)和巴布托的乔纳森·瓦克斯曼(Jonathan Waxman)闲逛。大卫·张(David Chang)选择坚持“ WD-50帮派”。[Diner's Journal/NYT]包括Barbetta和Kyotofu在内的剧院界餐厅,鉴于百老汇爆炸的细分,本周(感恩节除外)将提供15%的菜单。[NYC Visit via Bottomless Dish/Citysearch] Related: Theater Strike Could Drop Curtain on Midtown Restaurants Masa may be one of the most expensive restaurants in New York, but it’s almost chump change in the rest of the world, considering Tokyo’s Aragawa “an eight-ounce piece of Kobe steak from a sake-fed Wagyu cow” for $400. [Forbes]
新闻源
乔纳森·瓦克斯曼(Jonathan Waxman)打开一个新的巴布托住宅区乔纳森·瓦克斯曼(Jonathan Waxman)在远西村(Far West Village)的乔纳森·瓦克斯曼(Jonathan Waxman)的高级巴尼德(Haute Barnyard)前哨基地的巴布托(Barbuto)一直是一家餐厅,以其独特的空间而闻名。对于新的Barbuto来说,可能并非如此,我们听到的是明年在哥伦布圈子地区计划的情况。负责Barbuto PR的Susan Magrino代理商尚未提供任何细节,但确认该餐厅的目标开放日期为2008年9月。
新闻源
Chef Centerfold Calendar Ready for 2008我们刚刚美食Instit的副本ute calendar, and though we expected it to be pretty good (the pictures are by我的最后晚餐作家梅兰妮·邓尼(Melanie Dunea)),事实证明这几乎是超现实的。Dunea确实获得了厨师魅力镜头的荒谬性,但她没有试图降低肖像,而是将自己的见解折叠回照片中。这些图片是如此高的概念,以至于超越了最初的食品折扣目的。杰出的!该日历有助于支持轮子上的城市用餐,其标志性风格为十二位大型厨师,并在牛仔西装中包括Maremma的Cesare Casella等令人敬畏的镜头,看起来像是平原上坚韧的托斯卡纳警长;埃斯卡(Esca)的大卫·帕斯特纳克(David Pasternack)看上去完全循环,将酒倒在他的鱼同伴的嘴里。巴布托(Barbuto)的乔纳森·瓦克斯曼(Jonathan Waxman),将我们希望的东西扔在一个温柔的托尼·蒙塔纳(Tony Montana)的狂欢中。美食研究所2008日历的厨师相关:吃最后的晚餐
Neighborhood Watch
Calling All Casseroles; Jonathan Waxman to Cook Southern on the UWSGreenpoint: Casserole fanatic turned cookbook author Emily Farris is hosting a cook-off at Brooklyn Label on October 16. Register now! [Brooklyn Based] Midtown East: The Tao formula should fit right in on Lincoln Road in South Beach. [Down by the Hipster] Tribeca: Bubby’s owner Ron Silver is finally giving up his pie recipes in a cookbook out this month. [NYS] Upper West Side: Barbuto chef-partner Jonathan Waxman turns to southern fare this fall when he opens Madaleine Mae on Columbus Avenue at 82nd Street. [NYT] West Village: In comparing Bay Area restaurant trends to those in New York, critic Michael Bauer concedes: Blue Hill chef Dan Barber “does Chez Panisse one better by growing most of the food at his farm in Hudson Valley.” [Between Meals/San Francisco Chronicle]